Tuesday, September 9, 2014

Gluten Intolerance & Complications

Read U.S. News World Report on Gluten Intolerance & Complications

Surprising Signs of Gluten Intolerance

From a skin rash to joint pain, these symptoms may mean it’s time to give up the gluten.

Gastrointestinal effects
Malabsorption of vitamins
Skin rash
Joint pain
Lactose intolerance
Chronic fatigue


Thursday, August 21, 2014

Crock-Pot/Slow Cooker Chicken

Crock-Pot/Slow Cooker Chicken, Rainbow Ranch Farms, Style! 

We get up very early and work all through the day, often until evening. We are hungry at the end of the day, and we are thankful for our wholesome, delicious and simple-to-cook chicken. Hot and ready!

If the video goes a little to quick for you, simply pause at anytime. We hope you like this short, yet informative video. 


Sunday, August 10, 2014

How to Make Easy Beef Stock and Tallow

Beef Bone Broth/Stock and TALLOW

By Xenia (Rainbow Ranch Farms)

You will need:
A source of heat
A large stock pot with lid
8-10/lbs of beef bones (knuckles, marrow & rib bones)
Red wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar
Fresh lemon juice
Sea Salt
Favorite seasoning (optional, but not recommended if making tallow)
A stainless steel strainer (fine)
A large stainless steel bowl
A large stainless steel spatula
1 quart or 1/2 gallon glass jars with lids
1 tallow storage container

1. Add bones into stock pot
2. Cover 1/2 way (for richer stock) or cover all the way with water (for lighter stock)
3. Add the freshly squeezed juice from one lemon
4. Add 1/3 cup of vinegar
5. Add Sea Salt (to taste) I use 3 heaping table spoons

6. On the lowest heat possible (avoid boiling) slowly braise for at least 12 hours, while covered.
7. Turn off heat and let sit (while covered) until cool and the tallow has hardened

NOTE: Tallow should be white and covering the entire surface of the top of stock pot

8. Using a spatula, gently break and remove the tallow and place it into your container

9. Place your strainer into the stainless steel bowl, and carefully strain the stock through the strainer into the bowl
10. OPTIONAL: place a second strainer over the jar, and carefully begin filling jars, and closing with lids.
11. Refrigerate!

If you want to make the stock/broth and NOT collect the tallow, the tallow can be used as a natural air tight seal/shield for protecting the stock and keeping it fresh longer. Check photos below:

Nutrition Data

Bone Broth for Health

Digestion, Arthritis & Cellulite

Calories Grass-Fed Bone Broth

Health Benefits

Friday, July 25, 2014

How to Make Simple Castile Soap

How to Make Homemade Castile Soap
by Rainbow Ranch Farms
Click the photos and links to visit pages, photo links and credits and learn more about making soap.

What is SOAP?

Soap is an alkali product (like sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide) combined with a fat source or various fat sources (vegetable fats or animal fats).Once the required ingredients, under the correct conditions are combined, it creates a chemical reaction called (1)"Saponification". At the end of the process you are left with a product which cuts through grime, grease, stubborn stains, dirt and basically, an ANTI-BACTERIAL, cleansing agent (AKA Soap).

Different types of fat sources require a different exact amount of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) to react into saponification..


It should be noted that vegetable-fat based soaps DO NOT foam up very well in comparison to soaps made with animal fats. However, coconut oil-based soap does lather more than olive oil. Suds, lathering and foaming action are NOT responsible for cleaning. NOTE: Automatic dishwasher detergent does not foam and neither does laundry soap, however they still get the job done!

Homemade simple soaps do NOT generally have a commercial-type soapy foaming action and do not foam like store brands. Even most of your favorite organic and organic castile soaps may contain added chemicals that are known to make a foaming action, and the ingredients used are often commercial solvents and cleansers such as (3) "Sodium Lauryl Sulfate" .

MAKING SOAP WITHOUT LYE (sodium hydroxide (NaoH) )

You can use potassium hydroxide or an anionic detergent such as sodium lauryl sulfate. Anionic detergents are widely used in everyday cosmetics, soaps, shampoos and various body care products. By simply adding sodium lauryl sulfate to water, it will LATHER and FOAM, it will make lots of SUDS, but it's NOT soap. That being said, using solvent detergents to create foaming, lathering and suds is a very inexpensive way to produce bubble bath, dish-washing liquid soaps, soap bars, shampoos and body care products, just to name a few. These are the types of chemicals that we are trying to avoid, that is way we make our own soaps. 


Caustic acids are very dangerous and highly toxic. Sodium Hydroxide is by far one of the most dangerous caustic acids to work with, and is responsible for many accidents and injuries in labs across the world. If lye-water splashes onto your skin, the burn will not isolate to that immediate area. As it turns all fats into soap, it can also turn your skin into soap (depending on the strength of your lye-water mixture). If it splashes in your eye, it can cause blindness. If lye-water comes into contact with your skin, DO NOT USE WATER to rinse it off, USE vinegar. Vinegar will neutralize the lye water. Some people I have talked with also have used baking soda, but I do not have personal experience with using baking soda for this purpose. Lye-water can reach rapidly-rising temperatures in excess of 300 degrees(F), so combined with inherit caustic values, it can do some serious and permanent damage to your skin and even other surfaces (kitchen counter, etc).

The information posted here is only for educational and informational purposes and not in any way a tutorial. I am NOT responsible for anyone who chooses to work with caustic chemicals, and I am NOT responsible for any injuries (or worse) that may result from using information in this post to experiment with dangerous and caustic ingredients.

SIMPLE CASTILE SOAP RECIPE (takes about 40-45 minutes, fro start to pouring molds)

We use the whey from making cheese, we use raw goat milk, olive oil as well as homemade hog-lard to make our soaps and shampoo. 

Before I begin, I wear an apron, safety glasses, safety gloves, nose/mouth dust-mask (in pocket for later use), closed toes shoes, long pants/trousers, long, tight fitting sleeves (no loose sleeves), pull hair back away from face and secure, and keep apple cider vinegar handy, easy to reach and close by..

Contents of My Soap Making Kit:+ List is below.

Always take safety precautions when working around any chemicals. I have included my checklist, which is always inside my soap making kit.

Two containers of pure sodium hydroxide
Two heavy-duty plastic measuring cups
One glass, PYREX measuring cup
One set of heavy duty, plastic funnels (at least 3)
One set of heavy duty, plastic measuring spoons
One half-gallon glass jar with lid (64oz.)
One 1-quart glass jar with lid (32oz.)
One large, stainless steel (made in USA) soap-making pot
One medium, stainless steel (made in USA) pot that fits a one quart jar inside (with plenty of room to spare)
One hand held, electric mixer (low and high settings with pulse action)
One non-electric, heavy duty, stainless steel (made in USA) hand whisk-mixer
One set of wooden spoons (with long handles)
One plastic spatula (made of heavy duty plastic)
One lab coat or heavy duty apron (covers from chest to shins)
One box of safety-gloves (heavy duty)
Two pairs of safety glasses
One package of face/dust masks
One electronic scale (must measure in grams, pounds and ounces)
One analog scale (must measure in grams, pounds and ounces)
Two stainless steel, food grade, meat thermometers (one must operate without batteries or electricity)
One large (1-quart) glass jar filled with apple cider vinegar
One 1-gallon distilled water
Several work towels (I have 10)
Several, various soap molds (from toilet paper rolls, PVC-pipe tubes to disposable/reusable to-go containers & old loaf pans)
One container plastic wrap
One container wax paper


.In order for the sodium hydroxide to react properly, always use less sodium hydroxide than fat, and make sure all ingredients are measured exactly and always measured by weight and NOT volume.. This prevents the trace of any excess or unused lye in the finished soap bar which is called (2) "soda ash".,

64.3g of lye for 500g of olive oil,  instead of 67.7g.means that 5% of that 500g of olive oil will not be turned into soap, leaving a finished soap bar that is 475g of saponified olive oil with 25g of leftover olive oil mixed into the bar to moisturize your skin and work as a buffer against any errors in measuring the lye.

500g of olive oil requires 67.7g of sodium hydroxide
500g of pork lard requires 70.5g of sodium hydroxide

I aim for a 5% superfat. When using a superfat of 8-10% and higher, the soap is too soft and can even spoil or become rancid. In addition, over 10% can be irritating to the skin and cause dryness and itching too. I would never recommend using an 8% or higher on children or those with sensitive skin.


A. NEVER use any aluminum or aluminium when mixing lye or making soap. Alum-based products react with lye.Always use a container suitable for mixing lye-water,

B. Always add lye (sodium hydroxide) to water and NEVER add water to lye. Adding water to lye can cause an eruption. Always use a container suitable for mixing lye-water.

C. When mixing lye to water, it causes a chemical reaction which releases highly toxic and potentially deadly gas and fumes. When making lye-water, be sure you are in a well ventilated area or outside. Always use a container suitable for mixing lye-water.

The information posted here is only for educational and informational purposes and not in any way a tutorial. I am NOT responsible for anyone who chooses to work with caustic chemicals, and I am NOT responsible for any injuries (or worse) that may result from using information in this post to experiment with dangerous and caustic ingredients.

24/oz. Olive Oil (certified organic optional)
6.83/oz Distilled Water
3.14/oz Sodium Hydroxide Crystals
OPTIONAL: Essential oils, herbs, scents, coloring agents and more goodies to add to soap

1. Using a scale and 1-quart glass jar, pour distilled water into jar (remove jar-lid)

2, Place the jar of distilled water into a stainless steel smaller pot 1/2 filled with ice-water, this will be used later to cool down the lye-water. As it reacts it could reach temperatures over 300 degrees (F). Add a funnel to top of jar.

3. Using a scale plastic measuring cup, measure the correct amount of sodium hydroxide

4. Using a scale and stainless steel pot, pour the olive oil into the soap making pot (pot on the stove-top)

5. Turn on heat to olive oil on the lowest possible setting, I heat the olive oil to about 95 degrees (F) (when using animal fat (lard) I heat to 110 degrees (F).

While olive oil is slowly, gently heating......Put on face-mask

 Photo Link and CreditPhoto Credit

Back to the Lye-Water/Sodium Hydroxide:

6. slowly pour the correct amount of sodium hydroxide crystals through the funnel and into the jar of water  (a little bit at a time) and gently swish the glass jar to mix the lye into the water. I lift the jar in and out of the ice-water and slowly, gently swish (WITHOUT SPLASHING or SPILLING). Continue to add the sodium hydroxide through the funnel and dipping the jar into the ice-bath until all the sodium hydroxide is inside the water. I continue to swish until the water is clear (at which point the lye has dissolved into the water).

7. Using one of the thermometers, check the temperature of the lye-water. I wait until it temperature drops down to 95 degrees (F). (when using animal fats (lard) I match both lye-water and lard to 110 degrees (F). Using the other thermometer, check the temperature of the olive oil (should be 95 degrees (F). .

 Photo Link Credit

8. Once the olive oil and the lye-water have reached 95 degrees (F)......turn off the stove and never allow olive oil to overheat, boil or burn. We are just heating it enough to get a good, strong saponification-reaction.

9. Carefully remove the jar which contains the lye-water from the ice bath and begin to slowly pour into the olive oil. Using one of the wooden spoons, slowly stir the mixture, and continue adding the lye water, and slowly stirring until it is well mixed. (the mixture will begin to change color, and start to thicken).

Photo Link Credit:

Once the lye-water is in the oil, I remove my face-mask.

I continue using the wooden spoon until the mixture has been blended.

 Photo Credit

Once hand blended with a wooden spoon, using the electric hand-held mixer on LOW, gently pulsate until it mixture begins to thicken (AVOID any splashing).. Once the mix starts to thicken, using the high setting on the electric mixer, mix until it reaches "trace" (I look for a very thick trace, almost like taffy).

Photo Link Credit:

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TRACE! Trace is thick like taffy.

OPTIONAL: Here is where some people will add essential oils, herbs, scents etc. When experimenting with adding essential oils etc. it is helpful to understand that 1. they can stop the saponification process or 2. they can make your soap very hard or 3. damage your entire batch of soap.

10. Using the wooden spoon, gently turn the mix a few times to ensure it is thick enough.

 Photo Link Credit

OPTIONAL: Line the soap mold with plastic wrap or wax paper and gently coat the surface with some olive oil (this will help the removal of the soap, once dry)

11. Using the wooden spoon to assist, pour the mix into the mold or molds, gently tap down to avoid air bubbles. Once the molds are filled, cover them with plastic wrap and towels and place in a safe dry place for 24-48 hours.

Photo Link Credit: Photo Credit

12. Once dry, I cut the bars of soap, place them on a drying rack, cover them with clean cloth towels and let them cure from 3-6 weeks before using.

13. Cutting the bars of soap:

  Photo Link Credit
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The longer the soap dries and cures, the better quality it becomes. 


Click photos to visit the links/pages/credits. 

(1) Saponification:

(2) Soda Ash:

(3) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate:

The information posted here is only for educational and informational purposes and not in any way a tutorial. I am NOT responsible for anyone who chooses to work with caustic chemicals, and I am NOT responsible for any injuries (or worse) that may result from using information in this post to experiment with dangerous and caustic ingredients.